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The year is 1955 and 18yr old Harry Eric
Crethar is doing his usual run around ‘The Block’, the local
name for the major retail portion of Lismore’s CBD, sussing out the café
competition in preparation for the launch of his very own ‘Wonder Bar.’ He’s a happy chap; having survived the
destruction of war-torn Athens and Piraeus he now sees comparative
prosperity and optimism all around him. The whole community is still
imbued with post war euphoria, building their dream homes in newly created
subdivisions, acquiring cars and taking regular trips to the beach. The
dairy farmers, still the mainstay of the local economy, albeit still
struggling and propped up by ever increasing government subsidies,
continue to believe that stabilization of their industry is just around
the corner. The banana growers, in ever increasing numbers due to record
profits, believe the current glut is only a temporary aberration. The old-style department store tycoons and their army of employees believe the new
self-service chain stores will never catch on. And all the other
shop-keepers around the block have smiles on their faces as they look out
their doorways and believe the huge crowds filing past will go on forever.
The warnings of the weather prophets of storm clouds on the horizon and of
the seismological diviners on ominous rumbles through the region go
unnoticed except for a few astute Greeks who had started the exodus from
Lismore post WW2. Nevertheless, the Greeks still dominate the catering
trade and their subsequent fall from glory is for retrospective
contemplation. In the meantime young Harry, starting his circuit along
Molesworth Street, comes to his first port of call:
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Haralambos
Anargyros Kritharis
(Greek National Day, Bexhill 1955)
(Courtesy Crethar Collection) |
The Capitol Café
(84 Molesworth)
Notwithstanding the groundwork of Athena
Andrulakis (nee Florias),
The Capitol,
introduced into Lismore by the Vlismas Bros in 1929, was the first major
Ithacan assault on the cafe stranglehold of the Kytherian mafia. It has
swapped hands a few times and is now in the possession of Peter Manias
and, except for being lined in black marble and the installation of a
magnificent new soda fountain, remains unchanged from the extensive
makeover of 1937, which brought it up to a standard to rival Angelo
Crethar’s establishment further down the street. While they lack some of
Angelo’s finer touches, wooden seating verses plush leather-covered
cushions for instance, the wider street frontage gives the place more
elbow room for indulgent dining and mod cons, leaving the adjudicators to
award a marginal first in the competition for Lismore’s classiest
restaurant (or as one egalitarian Australian gourmet put it: ’The
Capitol was the poshest restaurant, but Angelo’s had the poshest people’!
I kid you not.)
By the late 30s the lingering
aftereffects of the Depression were receding rapidly (‘happy days are
here again’ said one bloke in a preface to his café adverts), and the
new spirit of optimism in the air saw many other cafes in the region
upgraded and new ones built. The Capitol
emerged as a model of ultra-modern café
architecture, with the extensive use of glass bricks in the reconstruction
a first for Lismore and probably in the region, and arguably nudging
Con Vlismas’s new
art moderne Austral Café in Murwillumbah off the pedestal as
the poshest café in country NSW. (It’s a tricky one though. In the class
stakes, and in no particular order, the straw poll indicates that into the
1950s four Greek cafes, the Capital, Crethars, the Austral
and Eric Diamond’s Hollywood Cafe at Coolangatta, were head and
shoulders above all other cafes in the region, inclusive of the Clarence.
In their era however, the Vlismas Bros Bellevue Café in Murbah,
revamped in 1935 with a fashionable nightclub, the Samios Bros
purpose-built nightclub, the Cabaret Café, opened at Kyogle in
1935, and Mark Cassimatis’s air-conditioned Civic Café, launched at
Murbah in 1940, have grounds to appeal the judge’s decision.)
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Capitol Café 1937
Spiro Angelo Dendrinos centre and Peter Dionysos Manias behind till
(Courtesy Northern
Star via Diane Manias) |
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Capitol Cafe 1945
The place underwent another makeover in 1939 in response to Angelo Crethar's upgrade.
(Courtesy Diane Manias) |
Harry prefers not to enter the controversy
(put two Greeks together and you get three arguments, as they say in the
classics) and simply notes that
they continue to make all their own cakes, pastry, chocolates, ice cream
and assorted confectionery, and employ a permanent staff of 12.
Out the back in the Department of
Philosophy he also observes that the usual crowd of SP bookies and card
sharks has assembled to argue politics and the state of the nation, a
peculiar Greek kafeneion custom that never caught on with the locals, the
pubs’ public bars remaining the favoured forum for debating. But our spy
moves on, having wised up after donating his wages on too many occasions.
However, he can see that dining out in
Lismore is rapidly evolving away from the traditional sit-down
three-course meal and conventional menu, and the Capitol, with its
elaborate kitchen, bakery department, counters and large staff, is heading
for white elephant status. And sure enough within a couple of years it was
reduced to light refreshments and retailing of its cakes and pastries, and
by 1960 was occupied by an electrical retailer.
Top
The Vogue Milk Bar
(41 Molesworth)
Before continuing down the inside of the
block, Harry veers across the road to call in on Jack Kery Bavea and finds
him doing a relaxed trade between theatre showings. Jack and his bride
Patra (nee Dermati of Moree) had come to town from Tingha in 1946 and
joined Nick Crones in partnership upon acquiring Angelo Crethar’s shares,
becoming sole owners a year or so later when Nick moved around to Magellan
Street to open ‘The New City Milk Bar’. Jack is the son of Kyriakos
Ioannis Baveas, the warrior who served in both the Balkan Wars and WW1
and, with his brother-in-law, the late Lismore identity, Theo George
Fardouly, amongst the pre WW1 Kytherian pioneers out west.
Harry registers less passing
trade on the outside of the block, although Jack’s elaborate sandwiches,
salads and sundaes attract loyal lunch time customers from the many
offices in the vicinity, while the matinee and evening theatre crowds
continue to pull a quid. The theatre was given an extensive makeover after
the 1954 flood, introducing air-conditioning and adding a very
plush dress circle where Jack installed another milkbar as a more
convenient spot to provision his lolly boys who wandered the theatre, one
of whom is none other than our Harry, a well-built deterrent to delinquent
behaviour.
By the mid 60s the popularity
of theatre going was well and truly on the wane, prompting him to sell up
and retreat to Sydney in 1966, leaving the shop in the hands of his
son-in-law, Charles Nick Feros, who
followed him to Sydney about 6mths later upon finding that the trade had
continued to deteriorate. Peter Cassis, nephew of the various Cassis in
businesses elsewhere in town, managed to squeeze some life out of it for
another 18mths, after which the place folded as a catering outlet.
[And Jack’s brother, Nick Bavea, also
found the north coast café game hard going by the mid 60s, managing to
dispose of his ‘Black & White Café’ in Casino a couple years later
to follow him to Sydney, marking the final phase of the exodus from the
region. Jack’s son Kerry returned to town in 1972 to set up a dental
practice, continuing the new trend in the nature of 2nd
generation employment.]
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The Vogue, an airy open-plan affair
scoring a 7* in the milk bar category, went through a number of
purifications until born again as a real estate office, while the
Christian Life Centre now finds the theatre next door ideal for
evangelical gatherings.
[Digression: At a press conference a few
years ago, Paul Panaretto, owner of the El Gronda Café next to the
theatre in Casino, was asked: ‘And the question on everyone’s lips Paul
is how you managed to serve a hundred or so screaming kids during the 20
minute interval at the Saturday afternoon Matinee’
Paul: ‘Anticipation. We more or less knew what they’d order and had
drinks already poured, ice creams made up.....’
Interjector: ‘But what about little buggers like me who wanted a
penny’s worth of assorted lollies and took forever to choose which ones?’
Paul: ‘You little *%#!/&!*#x$%.......’.]
Vogue Theatre 1957 (milk bar bottom
right)
(Courtesy Drew Collection) |
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The Tudor Café
(106 Molesworth)
Harry resumes his walkabout and returns to
the main drag to run an eye over the Tudor, which is doing a busy trade as
usual under the steady hand of Norman Contojohn, who had recently taken
command from his father Peter, another non-Kytherian upstart from the
Ipiros region of northern Greece. The teenaged Peter had landed pre WW1
and spent many years in Western Australia until coming to this region
looking for work during the Depression years. By the mid 30s he was back
in the café game with a shop at Glen Innes, but in the early war years
came to Lismore to acquire the business of ‘Coroneo & Panaretto’
after the enlistment of Jack Victor Panaretto.
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The site had been a dedicated café outlet
since 1927 when Paul Coronakes of Woodlark Street rolled out his second
business, giving it a makeover in 1930 and 3yrs later passing the place to
the Jones family. They in turn passed it to the puzzling Greek
partnership in the late 30s, just after the 1937 reconstruction that gave
the place the distinctive mock-Tudor look and new mod cons that brought it
into the big league. It’s understood Denny Panaretto was the gaffer,
leaving his brother Jack with day-to-day management, while the silent
Coroneo half remains elusive; either Nick Angelo Crones or Peter and/or
Leo John Coroneos. The business is believed to have traded as Coroneo &
Contojohn for a short period until Peter Contojohn took full command.
Artist's Impression 1937
(Courtesy Northern Star) |
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In early 1945 the Contojohns were amongst
those who chose to close their businesses after they became too difficult
to run through increasing rationing, quotas and lack of staff. Following
the mid year flood, the worst in Lismore’s history at the time, they
acquired portion of the shop next door and carried out a major overhaul,
relaunching in early 1946 with the name ‘Tudor Café’ immortalised
on the footpath in mosaic tiles. It now had a substantial bakery amongst
other innovations, earning a 7+ on the posh scale, but, not to rest on
their laurels, in 1948 they acquired the freehold and continued fine
tuning until 1956 when Norm, an accomplished pastry cook, split the shop
and business and passed the café to John Carblis, while he concentrated on
the bakery and retailing of his cakes and pastries.
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Tudor
Café 1948 - Peter Contojohn (Kountogiannis)
in front of bar
[L to R: Daisy
Contojohn (Hicks), Llona McGuiness, Eunice Dean, Aileen Butler, Joy
Patch, Betty Contojohn (nee Jarman),
Dot Patch (O'Keefe), Clair Wallace, Pearl Callaghan, Flo Hooker, Ivy
Hull (Wardrop), Nancy Ellis (Gordon), Molly Mooney, Mrs Bernard Ellis, Marie Sanotti]
(Courtesy Norm
Contojohn) |
John Carblis (Zois Karambalis) had Lismore
gobsmacked when he opened with large adverts proclaiming himself as ‘Australia’s
Most Celebrated Chef’ and
presenting a menu featuring some mysterious stuff called ‘continental
foods.’ He was a teenager when he landed from Lefkadi, just north of
Ithaca, in the 1930s, quickly mastering the mysteries of catering at
Lennons Hotel in Brisbane. He was still at Lennons when he enlisted in
1942 and was promptly seconded onto General MacArthur’s staff, becoming
the General’s personal chef for the duration of the American presence.
Lennons, where
MacArthur and his senior officers had requisitioned the entire top floor,
was the scene of many lavish functions for a stream of VIPS, (Admiral
Nimitz, Eleanor Roosevelt, Gary Cooper, …), all overseen by John. Post war
he became Head Chef at the hotel and in 1955 was appointed as the first
catering manager of the new ultra-modern Lennons Broadbeach, from where
the cunning Norm somehow managed to attract him to Lismore.
John was very busy indeed,
taking on the catering contract of the Canberra Hotel across the road as
well as provisioning and cooking for weddings, parties, balls and banquets
at venues all over town. Alas, the advent of the clubs and the drying up
of the café trade, coupled with Lismore’s resistance to newfangled cooking
ideas and ingredients, saw him return to Broadbeach in 1959. In the early
1960s he moved to Sydney and had a number of ventures over the following
years, including Head Chef at the Royal Sydney Yacht Squadron, the face of
Sunbeam Frypans and a stint in New Guinea, before his swansong as a
catering instructor at TAFE in the early 1980s. (And for chroniclers of
cooking: Sunbeam introduced its classic electric frypan in 1956, the
things quickly becoming essential items in every home and café kitchen.)
[John’s frustration at
Lismore’s reluctance to be culinary curious is echoed in the sentiments of
Arthur Cassis, an earlier cook at the Capitol. In the late 1950s, after a
long stint of banana growing at Mullumbimby, he returned to the café game
as a chef at one of the new trendy
restaurants at Surfers Paradise. A year or so later he went to the Austral
at Murbah with novel ideas on continental cooking and managed to convince
Con Vlismas to add a few exotic dishes to the menu. But the Murbahians,
like the Lismoriots, wouldn’t take the risk and stuck with steakeneggs,
causing him to comment that the town was ‘50 miles away and 50 years
behind... Surfers'!
And by the bye: Surfers was one of
the epicentres of Australian social change.
The Windjammer was
established in 1948 and led the way in casual al fresco dining,
cosmopolitan atmosphere, nightclub entertainment and exotic menus.
Sophistication extended to defying Queensland laws and serving booze with
meals, for which they were sprung and fined on numerous occasions. The
Flamingo, opened by the Dutchman Marny de Vires in 1954, continued the
trend and took dining way up-market. By 1980, when Lismore was just
awakening from its hibernation, Surfers and environs had over 300
restaurants, amongst the best in the country.]
In the meantime Norm installed a series of
managers at the Tudor until the mid 1960s when he again took charge of the
café, reorientating the whole shop to fast food and confectionery
retailing and running a lean operation until 1972 when a major
reconstruction created the Lismore Arcade. The bakery was consigned to
oblivion and the café reduced in size, introducing the very latest
takeaway foodology fashions, while a fun parlour was created upstairs,
offering pinball machines and billiard tables to lads misspending their
youth, the place folding in the late 70s after things got out of hand.
He started a billiard table retailing and
installation operation in the last shop in the arcade, leaving the cafe in
the hands of a series of supervisors, but remaining overseer into the
1990s when, at age 75, he finally leased the place, and, in Dec2004,
finally sold the building to Lismore’s latest property tycoon, Peter
Coronakes, who promptly closed it down for another major overhaul.
At the time of closure the place was known
as ‘Food for Thought’ and into al fresco, catering to
people-watchers with a penchant for footpath coffee sipping. It’s now home
to Subway, the sandwich specialists, currently the fastest growing
franchise chain taking over the world. Peter has left the original
footpath name unmolested and has himself opened a coffee shop in the
revitalised arcade. And the shambles upstairs is once again devoted to
professional offices.
The Star Court Kiosk
(122-136 Molesworth)
The inspection tour now takes Harry down
the Star Court Arcade where George and Mary Black are catering to
loyal customers. This cafe was created in 1930 by the partnership of
Angelo Victor Crethar and Greg Jacob Londy when they partitioned off a
section of the theatre forecourt, using the counter as the defining
barrier to the open-plan arcade. It’s bedlam and standing room only when
the theatre is in session but otherwise a more genteel pace reigns, with
passing shoppers enjoying a sandwich and cuppa tea at the half dozen
scattered tables and chairs.
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Star Court Kiosk 1941
Anargyros (Eric)
Victor Crethar behind counter
(Courtesy Harry Eric Crethar) |
The Kiosk, then known as the ‘Star
Court Kandy Shop’, was acquired by Peter Nick Crethary in 1942 after
Greg Londy decided he’d had enough of generating profits for Angelo and
branched out on his own at Casino. Business boomed when Peter installed
his stunning daughters, Matina and Mary (Muriunthi), behind the counter,
and American soldiers came from camps all over the place to show their
approval. In 1944 the bane of everyone’s life, quotas, rationing and lack
of staff, forced Peter to scale back his Monterey Café in Keen
Street and consolidate at the Star Court, which he owned until his death
in 1958, although Mary and her new husband, George John Black (Mavromatis)
of Casino, had taken full command by 1955, at which time the Kiosk was
only opened for the theatre sessions. Mary and George transformed the
place, opening all day and adding toasted sandwiches and the like to the
menu, continuing to run it until 1965, by which time they’d also
added Angelo Crethar’s original café around the corner in Molesworth
Street to the management workload.
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Star Court Kiosk 1953
L to R: Peter Nick Crethary, Harry Eric Crethar, Hedley Harder
(theatre manager)
(Courtesy Harry Eric Crethar) |
It remains in business, catering to the
crowds attracted to the occasional avant guard film showing,
concerts and live plays, as well as a lingering daytime trade from old
loyal customers. Every schoolkid smaller than counter height, if he
survived being trampled to death, remembers the disappointment of
returning empty handed to the theatre after half-time without Jaffas to
hurl at the bad guys on the screen. In revenge, the judges have awarded a
6*. (In comparing the Star Court and the Vogue, the cafes mirrored the
theatres. The Vogue was a classier cinema than the Star, with prices to
match, and the Vogue Milk Bar was a more profitable concern than the Star
Court Kiosk.)
In the projection box at the theatre was
Charlie Anthony Sourry, who had come down from Brisbane around 1940,
married his childhood sweetheart, Maria Nick Terakes, in 1942 then went
off for a distinguished war service. Post war he returned to the theatre,
but down the line started his own carrier business, via a few years as a
fruiterer and shop-keeper. He was a sports nut, becoming a life member of
the Norths Cricket Club, a life member of the Lismore Soccer Referees
Association and a life member of the Group One Rugby League Association.
Maria was ‘Lismore Citizen of the Year’ in 2005.
And that harrowing ahhhhhh… sound
Harry can hear is coming from the dental chair of Charlie’s old Brisbane
schoolmate, Con Minas Tsicleas, with rooms above the arcade. Con is the
most terrifying person in Lismore, with a range of diabolical instruments
that caused grown men to weep, let alone scaring the daylights out of the
50s generation of schoolkids (and generating phone threats to the
terrified Tsicalas family, above him in the phone book.) He had brought his implements to town in the
early 50s and initially had a practice in Molesworth Street before taking
up long term residence in the Arcade. He now enjoys sifting sand through
his toes in retirement at Ballina, reminiscing on the old times when his
hands wielded absolute power. Grrrrrrr….
But Harry quickly puts his hands over his
ears and looks towards the elaborate front entrance to the theatre’s
stalls and sees the future. The death of the movies occurred quickly after
introduction of TV, the stalls being knocked out to extend the arcade
through to Carrington Lane, leaving the dress circle above. One of the new
shops was taken up by the Ithacan Peter Manias and dubbed ‘The My Fair
Lady Coffee Shop.’
My Fair Lady Coffee Shop
(Star Court Arcade)
Peter Manias went against the Greek trend
and opened his shop in the arcade around 1962, quickly gaining a
reputation for his tasty pastry and providing Con Tsikleas with a steady
stream of victims. He had landed in 1922 and spent a few years with Con
Vlismas, the master caterer of Murwillumbah, until linking up with Spiro
Dendrinos to acquire the Vlismas Bros ‘Capitol Café’ in 1937. His
brothers Gerry and Leo subsequently joined the partnership, while
Dendrinos, like most Ithacans, went into the banana business in 1945. Leo
moved to Newcastle in 1955, leaving Peter to sense the end of the
elaborate café and recognize simplicity as the future direction of
catering. After selling out of the Capitol he marked time for a year or so
planning his new lean venture, which became a model for others, including
the ever-observant Harry Crethar, who concurs with the judges that a 7* in
the popularity category is fair.
Peter survived successfully into the
mid 1960s when he moved to ‘Marineland’ at Southport to apply
his formula in that burgeoning market, while his old shop has remained
trading to this day.
Harry emerges back into the sunlight of
Molesworth but before proceeding onto the salubrious café of his employer,
his uncle Angelo Crethar, again decides to cross the road to see whether
there are any new developments at the Golden Globe, the recently vacated
fiefdom of his namesake, ‘Old Harry’ Crethar.
The Golden Globe Café
(89 Molesworth)
The Globe had been created in the Girls
Club Building on the corner of Green Lane in late 1927, on the northern
side of the New England Motor Co’s Booking Office and Transit Lounge,
giving some competition to Athena Andrulakis. In late 1925 she had opened
the Richmond Oyster and Supper Rooms at number 85, a couple of
doors north of the lane and a couple of doors south of the Canberra Hotel,
perhaps seeking a bit of pub patronage along with the bus passenger trade.
She finally retired from the game in 1930, aged 64, passing the place to a
fruiterer who installed a posh soda fountain and traded for a couple of
years until going bust in mid 1933. It subsequently came
into the hands of Host Criss who resurrected the deep fryer and gained
a reputation as proprietor of a high-class fish shop, allegedly the
best in town, but by the late 1930s the place was occupied by Walz
drycleaning business, by which time the Daffodil Tea Rooms, on the
southern side of the bus terminus, had joined the Globe in servicing the
increasing passenger traffic.
The Daffodil was opened in mid 1931 by
Miss Elma Robinson, who has to be connected to the great George A.
Robinson who had founded New England Airways a couple of months earlier.
(And one of his first passengers was a bloke named T. Samios who was on
his way to watch the fights in Brisbane with two mates, sharing the tight
space in a de Havilland Puss Moth that could only carry two passengers at
a pinch.) The terminal was very
busy indeed, acting as the agency for a number of bus companies carting
passengers to and from towns and villages all over the place, as well as
booking the intrepid aviators.
The Globe, a regular meeting place for
the ALP, thrived through the region’s ‘Claytons Depression’, ‘Great
Depression’ and WW2 (despite bus services curtailed due petrol rationing)
and was in the hands of May Morris when acquired by Harry Jim Crethar in
1945 after he’d sold out of his Regent café in Keen Street. Harry’s
selling motives were much the same as others at the time; fed up with
trying to run a large establishment without staff and hampered by
rationing, he figured a hassle-free smaller affair would suit him at that
stage of life.
By 1946 things were really looking up with
the returned warriors all over the place, one of whom was his ex-Regent
employee, Spiro Tsicalas, who resumed employment with Harry but, in a fit
of pique in 1948, marched across the road to work for Angelo after Harry
welshed on his partnership deal (thank God). Harry’s nephew, Theo George
Poulos, went out in sympathy and also joined Angelo, leaving his mother,
Harry’s sister Zafiro, to remain loyal. Following her death in mid 1952
Harry decided he’d had enough after 30yrs in the game and retired to
Sawtell, where he died in 1956, at the same time the New England Motor
Company moved its expanding enterprise a long way south on Molesworth.
The Globe suffered a dramatic drop in
business and, being on the outside of the block with the decreasing
passing traffic increasingly reluctant to dip deep into pockets, the place
subsequently closed and the site redeveloped, leaving the judges to award
a posthumous 6.
Before proceeding back to the main drag
the budding capitalist gives the finger to the committed socialist
standing outside his drycleaning business.
Top
City Dry Cleaners
(101 Molesworth)
Lou Katsaros came to Lismore around 1930
to acquire a confectionery business, but didn’t do so well in those
dreadful Depression years that hardened his political stance as he watched
Lismore become home to the largest pool of displaced and unemployed in
northern NSW, albeit a ‘relative’ matter as the town’s
unemployment rate of 13% (mid1933 census) was almost half the State
average. While things started to come good by the mid 30s he remained
a paid-up lefty and enlightened employer upon becoming proprietor of City
Dry Cleaners in the late 30s, giving some socialist competition to Walz
30yds away.
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Lou
and his mates added a bit of spice to Lismore’s political life, although
they had buckleys in this stronghold of the Country Party, paradoxically a
strange amalgam of social conservatives and economic socialists like the
Labour Party. At its peak the Trades and Labour Council only had about 20
members and their efforts to unionise Lismore’s workforce were a cause for
much mirth. In mid 1947, after the introduction of the 40hr week, they
tried to form a local branch of the Shop Assistants Union to start
agitating for a five day working week, but only managed to attract 6 out
of Lismore’s estimated 800 shop employees to the meeting. Nevertheless,
the shop assistants benefited from the union efforts later in the year
when they won a new industrial award of £7/2/- for males and £4/10/6 for
females.
The Labour Council got the last laugh when
they demonstrated entrepreneurial capitalist flair in convincing a local
bank manager to give them money to buy an old house in Keen Street as a
clubhouse, ‘The Workers Club’, which, after the introduction of
poker machines in 1956, went on to become the largest and wealthiest club
in NSW. Lou never saw any of this however, as shortly after the finger he
sold up and joined his fellow travellers at Wollongong. |
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Lou Katsaros ~1940 Lismore
(You may
remember his daughter, Angelina/Andonia, a star in the ‘Age of
Consent’ with James Mason and Helen Mirrien, and a popular TV
actress in the 1970s and 80s)
Courtesy Matina King |
On the way back across the road Harry can
just see the front of Jack Hamilton’s popular pie cart, aka the Caravan
Café, on the river side of the intersection of Molesworth and Magellan, recently
relocated from its old spot at the corner of Carrington and Magellan.
His trade peaked around the late 50s, allegedly selling 80doz pies on a
Saturday night to the boppers at the nearby Riviera dance hall, but
thereafter rapidly falling away as the Riv became a victim of the club
scene. The tradition is still being
maintained by Ridgy Didgy Pies, operating out of an elaborate
semi-trailer sized caravan adjacent to the old Post Office in Magellan,
and still doing a roaring trade to the chagrin of the other Magellan
caterers. (Never get between a Lismoreian and a pie.)
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Caravan Cafe 1960
(Courtesy Drew Collection) |
Crethar’s Air-Conditioned Café
(142 Molesworth)
‘Young Harry’, like a lot of other
die-hard devotees around town, still considers that the
‘Air-Conditioned’ should share the podium with the Capitol at the
awards’ ceremony for Lismore’s premier restaurant, retaining it’s 9 on the
Posh Scale, inclusive of a bonus point for proprietor’s star quality. But,
even so, Harry notes the diminishing patronage of the grand dining room
beyond, while the lighter refreshments at the front continue to bubble
along.
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The ‘Air-Conditioned’ was the culmination
of Angelo Victor Crethar’s long marathon starting in Ballina in 1911. He
and his brother Menus inherited the business of their brother Harry in
1919, although Angelo gained control of the stove while Menus was running
around arguing with Turks and, later closer to home, café competitors in
Tamworth and Brisbane. He was amongst the first to appreciate the
simplicity of the new sundae-shops rapidly gaining in popularity, doing
away with the large capital expenditure and heavy manpower requirements of
the traditional café/restaurant. Mixing a concoction at the counter and
serving it with Peach Melba, or similar confection, sure beat the hell out
of sweating away in the elaborate kitchen in the back. Over the next few
years he opened the things everywhere, leaving them in the hands of
managers after his initial purchase and makeover.
Angelo Crethar ~1919
(Courtesy Gloria Weston) |
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His move to Lismore in 1923 was probably
prompted by his canny timing ability, sensing that the decline in
Ballina’s growth rate was permanent, although the competition was also
getting a little more aggressive. Said one Ballina rival in his 1923
adverts: Australian’s help Australians…. Lattimores are Australian, so
come to Lattimores…. As elsewhere, the Greeks were giving their
Australian competitors a serious headache, as Angelo found upon arrival in
Lismore. He kept a low profile during the ‘Great Barrow Wars,’ wisely
concentrating on perfecting his sundae-shop formula and staying clear of
fruit retailing.
His first acquisition in Woodlark Street,
the ex ‘Canberra Café’ of George Patrinos, late of Brunswick Heads,
was quickly revamped into ‘Crethar’s Sundae Shop’. In 1926 came the
purchase of a tea room business in Molesworth, the site of John
Zervothakis’s ‘American Café’ 20yrs earlier,
followed by a shop in Keen in 1927,
another in Woodlark in 1929, the Star Court in 1930 and the Vogue in 1936,
all left in the hands of managers or pseudo partners while he based
himself at the Molesworth enterprise and carried out a series of minor
upgrades, and, would you believe, employing a genuine Michelin-starred
French pastry cook wearing one of those funny hats that touched the
ceiling.
His opening adverts for this premier shop had signalled his intentions to
compete for the high-end market: There is a new page in Lismore's
History with the opening of one of the most up-to-date shops of its kind
outside Sydney... Crethars New Sundae Shop... This is a FASHIONABLE
RENDEZVOUS... Delightfully decorated and Restful... providing only the
best..., accompanied by a new logo and motto 'Always in Good
Taste.'
By 1932 he was claiming his shop was …one
of the most artistically furnished, brilliantly lighted, and best equipped
shops outside Sydney… the ‘made-to-day’ chocolates and candies find ready
purchasers…. Through to the
Depression and beyond he was shrewd enough to stick to his simplicity
recipe, but in 1935 when he sensed those ‘happy days were here again’ he
jumped the gun on his dithering competitors and again cornered the
upmarket niche, left vacant after the demise of Theo Fardouly’s elaborate
Olympia a couple of doors down and before the second coming of the
Capitol. He followed the Olympia formula, successfully combining both
extremes of the catering scale with a ritzy establishment on top and light
refreshments at street level, but with all the latest mod cons that Theo’s
pre WW1 era establishment could never incorporate.
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Crethar's Sundae Shop
1932
(Angelo beneath the lady with the lamp)
(Courtesy Drew Collection) |
Until his next masterstroke, the
introduction of air-conditioning in 1939, the upstairs area, reached by a
spacious internal staircase, remained the posh side of the business,
serviced by a dumb waiter from the kitchen below. But this new touch of
modernity consumed a fair chunk of space, so the downstairs area at the
rear was redeveloped, with the bakery re-established on top, relegating
upstairs to special catering occasions, such as weddings and banquets,
although remaining the favoured venue for the weekly meetings of his
fellow Rotarians. The front layout remained much the same as the
sundae-shop days, with the bar on one side of the entrance and a series of
two-seater booths down the other, the walkway between the two leading to
the larger dining room beyond.
His shop was the region’s first
air-conditioned business, let alone the first restaurant, to offer such an
innovation. It drew crowds that queued halfway down the street during
summer awaiting Angelo’s admittance wave, signalling who was ‘in’ and who
was ‘out’, a ready indicator to where he thought you ranked in Lismore’s
social structure. A subtle marketing strategy was to price the produce in
his window display, elegantly arranged fruit, cakes, pastries and other
enticing confections, slightly above that of his competitors, guaranteeing
that the pennywise never entered the place. In 1946 he was granted the
region’s first restaurant liquor licence, although a wine cellar was never
created; the bit of paper merely legitimatising the consumption of
‘light wines and malted liqueurs’ at the infrequent functions on top
and the odd patron way ahead of the BYO trend below.
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Crethar’s
Sundae Shop 1932 Left. Crethar’s Air-Conditioned Café 1952 Right (Eric Crethar
behind counter)
(Courtesy Harry Crethar) |
While losing heart after the massive
destruction of the ’54 flood, which broke the ’45 record, he hung on till
1956 when he again demonstrated his canny timing instincts, selling up
just before the accelerated decline in his style of dining out. The place
became Lismore’s first Chinese restaurant, the Tung Kong, but the locals
still weren’t ready for this type of colourful cuisine and it folded in
1962. George and Mary Black then returned a Greek presence, offering the
familiar Australian fare, albeit in a cheaper and less elaborate form to
Angelo’s package, until they too found trading difficult and moved to
Ballina in 1965. The site is now home to Pines Newsagency.
Final word from Sandy Robertson in his
book ‘End of an
Era; The Changing Face of Lismore’.
… Mr Crethar, himself always dressed in an immaculate suit, complete
with carnation in his buttonhole, supervised everything from the soda
fountain, milk bar, and restaurant right down to the kitchen. …The
waitresses were all in uniform, white aprons and headbands….
I can remember
when the postwar influx of migrants started arriving, it was discouraged
by the government to refer to them as ‘wogs’ or other unsavoury terms.
They were to be called ‘New Australians.’ Angelo’s reaction was, “What’s
this bleddy New Australian business? I’ve been here for thirty years and
I’m still a bleedy dago!”
But our New Australian Harry, winner of
many observer-of-the-day awards, foresaw the changing face of Lismore
catering and was already framing his own formula. And that prescient
talent gives him another glimpse into the future as he passes Pennys, one
of the smaller old-style department stores.
Top
Warina Walk Arcade
(154-158 Molesworth)
Pennys, like most of its elaborate
competitors, folded in the 60s, all falling like nine-pins together and
all shedding employees in droves, some after forty or more years of loyal
service. It was a dismal blot on Lismore’s employment history and Lou
Katsaros would’ve been depressed.
Nevertheless, things move on and the site
was redeveloped as Warina Walk Arcade in 1970. And first on the scene was
none other than our Harry, putting a deposit down to acquire a shop within
the precinct and create The Colonial Bar... specialist in home
style cooking. However, outfitting the place drains resources from
the ballooning business of his ‘Wonder Bar’ and he finds himself
overextended. Still, being a man of resolute will (he’d never admit to
stubbornness), he perseveres for a couple of years until relieved to pass
the place to his mother-in-law, Matina King (nee Crethary and Coronakes),
and returns to recommit to his first love. Matina carried on for a year or
so until the music stopped and there was a reshuffling of chairs; she
taking over her sister Mary’s shop in Ballina and Mary returning to
Lismore to take on the management of the exclusive Lismore Club, Lismore’s
answer to the Melbourne Club (think movers and shakers, black balls, etc.)
The Colonial remains in business, catering
to an older and devoted niche clientele (and outliving the Lismore Club.)
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Molesworth Street 1930 |
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Jones’ Tea Rooms
was the original home of the Queen City Refreshment Rooms, opened
by Alderman John I. Smith in 1896 and passed to Walter Gray in 1924. Gray
passed it to Fred and Grace Jones 18mths later and moved further north on
Molesworth to take over the MG Refreshment Rooms and create
the Elite Cafe, which he passed to the Vlismas Bros in 1929.
The Tudor
was a saddler’s shop until
converted into a café in 1927 by Paul Coronakes who passed it to the
Jones’ in 1933 after their shop, one of three in the
‘Simmons
Buildings’,
was absorbed in the construction of Penny’s Department Store,
later Warina Walk Arcade.
The Olympia Café
became home to Lang’s Shoe Shop in
1929, but Theo Fardouly and family continued to live upstairs for some
time.
Crethar’s Sundae Shop was established by Angelo Crethar in 1926 upon taking over the Tea Room
business of Sackett & Howard, who had in turn taken over the oyster
saloon of John Zervothakis in 1908. In 1935 Angelo added a second storey and absorbed
portion of the shop next door.
(Courtesy Drew Collection) |
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Molesworth Street 1935 |
Harry is jolted out of his reverie and
continues around ‘AGR’s Corner’ (Lismore’s favoured rendezvous
point and Sandy Robertson’s fiefdom) and into Magellan Street to see what
Peter Feros can offer.
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